We went back to the Hogsback, so Tad could Lead a multi-pitch
route himself. Tad settled on Knapsack Crack about a 5.3.
You want to start on something really easy when you're
leading for the first time. Though tad has done sport
leading before (where you clip into the bolt), he's never
done trad leading. It is much, much harder. You're usually
in one spot for a while, while you figure out which type
of device to use, and make sure it's secure in the crack.
Plus, the gear on your harness is HEAVY.
The guide actually soloed beside Tad as he placed the gear.
Soloing is without a rope. The guide did that all the way
up. I know a 5.3 is really easy, but look how high the
I belayed from Tad from below. As I expected, I was down
below for awhile. Then after they set the anchor up top.
This picture you can se the two of them on the top of the
1st pitch. Now this was my first time cleaning the gear.
It wasn't easy. The nuts, you have to use a tool, to knock
them lose, and then gently move them around until they slip
out of the crack. I couldn't get the first one out and
became very frustrated. The guide came down and helped me.
The rest from there went pretty smoothly, though all the
cams banging into my legs were annoying. I had tennis size
bruises on my legs. Plus the gear sling around my neck
chocked me because it wasn't fitted properly.